Paul Rivas was in his teens when he started at his family’s former restaurant.

His father Francisco co-founded La Bodega Restaurante & Tapas Bar with pal Jose Rivas in 1971. For 43 years, the establishment served Spanish food and drinks in Downtown Vancouver.

La Bodega is gone, its former Howe Street location now a hole on the ground waiting for a tower to rise.

“I worked there when I was 14 till I was 37,” Rivas recalled in a phone interview with the Straight.

His father made him do everything, from washing the dishes to bussing tables. He also went to culinary school to become a chef and cook at the restaurant.

“Then my dad took me to the front of the house to learn how to manage. Then he taught me how to do bar, and he taught me the back, the office, admin stuff,” the 38-year-old Rivas said.

When La Bodega closed in 2014 after Rivas’ father and friend Jose had hesitantly sold the land on which their restaurant stood to a property developer, Rivas was the general manager. At that time as well, he was also a co-owner of The Parlour, a restaurant in Yaletown.

Rivas wasn’t going to let a family tradition end.

“My father’s legacy is very important. He worked so hard,” he said.

In mid-September this year, Rivas opened Bodega on Main, a 4,350-square-foot restaurant at 1014 Main Street, bringing back some of the favourites from the old place, plus new offerings on the menu and at the bar.

There’s paella, which Rivas said Bodega has taken to the next level with lobster stock.

Former clients can order again lengua estofado, a dish of beef tongue, tomato, onion and capers.

Also back is gambas al ajillo, which is tiger prawns sautéed in garlic.

“We have the patatas bravas of course,” Rivas said. “That’s my father’s recipe and we still have that. And that’s still the number one seller by far. Everyone eats patatas.”

Also reappearing are some touches from the old place, like the chandeliers.

Rivas’ sister Natalie is the business manager. General manager Hector Medina is back to his old job, and so is chef Martiza Orellana, as well as many of the wait staff.

When Rivas’ father Francisco came to see his son’s new place, the 75-year-old man was pleased.

“There’s a few touches there that reminds him of the old spot, but he loves that it’s new and kind of breathes new life into the old soul of the La Bodega,” Rivas said.

"He loves it. He loves it," Rivas said about his father's reaction. 

It’s the best review Rivas ever needs for Bodega on Main. As he said laughing with joy: “No one is the biggest critic than my father.”